A Desert Adventure, Day 6

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View of the Grand Canyon from the top of North Kaibab Trail.

The Grand Canyon.

The sight of it inspires different emotions for different people, most of them very strong emotions. For me, it inspires a kind of disbelief and despair. Disbelief because it is so big, so grand, so… so much that my mind cannot grasp it. Walking along the rim of canyon, I start to wonder if it is even real. If the park staff printed a really, really long poster and suspended it from a scaffold… would I really be able to tell the difference? It is unreal the way the solar system is unreal, the way those vast distances and massive objects just cannot exist in the same reality as coffee mugs and car keys and you and me.

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Looking down to the continuation of the Kaibab Trail and the inner canyon.

And despair, because of course it is real, the way both car keys and Jupiter are real, but there is no way to ever convey its reality to someone else. I could write pages of description, and you would still not understand what it is like to stand on the edge of canyon. I could take thousands of photos, and not a single one of them could capture it immensity. The Grand Canyon makes me put down my camera because… what’s the point.

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The Kaibab Trail switchbacks down, down, down.

And so I will say very little about the Grand Canyon except that we hiked part of the North Kaibab Trail, and part of the Rim Trail, and that it was more than I can ever, ever convey to you.

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A team of mules takes a break while heading up the Kaibab Trail.

A Desert Adventure: Day 5

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On the day Ashley and I turned thirty and our youth died forever, we broke camp in darkness and drove out into the desert. For all that the Navajo National Monument feels remote, it’s actually quite close to civilization: we passed a school bus on our way west. A little outside the town of Page, we pulled into a nearly-empty parking lot and settled in for a long wait. We were here to see the famous Antelope Canyon.

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A Desert Adventure: Day 3

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Red rocks and blue skies near the entrance to Arches National Park.

I won’t say the showers were worth the expense and disappointment of staying in a KOA, but they were nice. We started the day (Day Three) clean and well-rested and refreshed, and then it was a short drive from Green River to the first of our major destinations: Arches National Park.

Ever since I read Desert Solitaire by Edward Abbey, Arches has seemed like a pilgrimage site to me. I was excited by the prospect of finally seeing it for myself—and of spending most of a day outside of a car.

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A Desert Adventure: Days 0-2

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It was one of those mercurial fall days that’s sunny and blustery in turns and leaves you unsure whether you should be wearing sunglasses, a jacket, or both. After a short, indifferent summer autumn was here in force, and my friend Ashley and I were fleeing the rainy weather for somewhere warmer and drier.

Ashley and I met back in college and knew we were platonic soulmates when we discovered that we had the exact same birthday—same day, same year. Since this year we were turning thirty, we decided we should do something big to celebrate the death of our youth and the onset of old age, and we settled on a road trip around the American Southwest. Which was why, as the evening began to threaten rain, we crammed our camping gear in the back of Ashely’s SUV and set off on an adventure.

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