Field report: finally

Not yet September, and fall is already chasing summer away: the afternoon light has lost the gold of midsummer; the mornings are cool and smell like things leaving. Two months after we retreated from Sigurd Peak in defeat, I still haven’t written anything about the field season. Perhaps it’s because time seems meaningless these days: two months, two days, two years—it’s all feels the same. Perhaps it’s because the field season was so miserable.

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Sunset over the mountains near the Utzilus site.

It’s hard to say what, exactly, made the season so. Certainly the pandemic made things challenging, adding a level of uncertainty and stress to work that is inherently uncertain and stressful. The weather undoubtedly contributed, being so cold and rainy that we were forced to reschedule trips and dig out our down jackets even in late June. As always, the work was physically grueling and emotionally exhausting. But perhaps the worst was that we only found two nests.

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My morning routine involves covering my feet in duct tape to prevent blisters.

This is not to say that the season as a whole was a bust. Because of the pandemic, our crew was divided into strict teams. Other teams found a number of nests, even more than last year. But Gina and I, despite all our effort and suffering, found only two—and one of them failed less than two weeks later. The season’s last straw was a minor injury while scrambling up the steep and rocky Sigurd Valley Trail that ended our final stint early and on a downcast note. And so, as I spread my dripping tent out on the floor of my room to dry, I was glad the season was over and I felt no desire to write a single word about it.

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A beautiful day in the Squamish Valley.

“What happens to your birds after you’re done with them?” my physiotherapist asked, after I told him I studied northern goshawks. “Do they get to go back to the wild?”

“Oh, no,” I said. “They were always in the wild. We just stop bothering them.”

That’s my favorite thing about “the wild”: it was always there. Before I drove up the Squamish Valley, before I climbed up the Ashlu Canyon, it was there and the goshawks were there in it. And even though I am no longer in it with them, and may never be again, it makes me glad to know those goshawks are still out there. I just stopped bothering them.

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Our last, gloomy day in the field, looking out over the confluence of the Ashlu and Squamish Rivers.

Field report: 31 July – 1 August

At least it will be flat.

This is what we told ourselves as we prepared for our final habitat surveys of the season. Our last site was Ruby Lake, coincidentally the first site I visited last season. It seemed appropriate that my first year of goshawking should be bracketed by the same site. And it seemed like it would be an easy site to end with, after the steepness of Mt. Ford and Twenty Mile Creek

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Red-legged from (Rana aurora) at Ruby Lake. The site contains vernal wetland/riparian, and hosts an abundance of frogs.

At least it’s the last one.

We told ourselves that, too. Because in the back of our mind we knew that, while Ruby Lake may be flat, it was covered in thick, thick vegetation. And it might not be such an easy site after all.

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Field report: 25-27 July

It was 8:00 in the morning and I was staring at a washed-out road that was crushing all my hopes and dreams merely by existing. Or by not existing, as the case may be. The road had been our only shot at driving to the top of the Ford Mountain site and the handful of survey points (randomly generated, remember) clustered there. Without the road, not only would we have to survey the very, very steep site entirely on foot, the high cluster of points became, barring heroic effort on our part, completely inaccessible.

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I said a bad word and got back in the truck. What else could I do? We drove back down to the bottom of the mountain and started walking. It was 8:00 in the morning and the day was already off to a bad start.

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Field report: 8-9 July

The problem with random points is that… they’re random. In this way, they are probably no better than systematic points, which have their own problem of being, well, systematic. Either way, the points are placed with no consideration, kindness, or mercy for the poor sods who have to go there and collect data. The poor sods in this case being Chris and me.

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Looking north over the Squamish River Valley.

Armed with a bunch of dots on a map, some surveying instruments, and a sense of fatalism, we set out to collect our habitat data. It was not quite as miserable as we predicted, though considering our low expectation this isn’t saying much. Some points were in the middle of a road: easy enough. Some points were on the far side of a raging whitewater river at the top of a sheer, towering cliff: absolutely impossible. Some were in mosquito-infested swamps that soaked our boots, or surrounded by piles of slash in clearcuts, or right in the middle of thickets so thick we could barely stand upright. A very, very few were in beautiful, open forest. It was a long two days, unpleasantly enlivened by two shocking events.

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Field Report: 11 June

I don’t think I can describe to you what it was like. Maybe if you’ve been to the tundra, or the Great Lakes, or some other part of the continent infamous for its biting bugs, you might understand. Maybe we can come together and form a support group for people who have suffered at the mouthparts of insects. But if you have lived a generally normal life in generally normal places—as I had up to this point—I’m simply not sure you can comprehend
how
many
mosquitoes
there
were.

But I’m getting ahead of myself. Again.

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Mel carries Chance to his post at the Turbid site.

The Mt. Currie site seemed promising at first. An overgrown road allowed us to drive most of the way to the nest and walk the rest. A flat, mossy patch of forest provided the perfect trapping area to set up nets and blinds. But there were early signs that this site might be a challenge. On the first walkthrough of the site, the female stooped on the scouts and actually struck Jeff, even though they were still a good distance from the nest. Yet once the nets and blinds and owl were all in place, she returned to her nest and stubbornly stayed there, no matter how much we hooted and shrieked to draw her in.

We all waited inside the blinds, bored and mildly miserable. It was a hot day, but there were too many mosquitoes to leave the blind door open. Where the bottom of the blind didn’t quite meet the uneven ground, mosquitoes slipped in. We tried sealing the gaps with our packs, without much success. The air inside the blinds was warm, sticky, and buzzing.

The nest wasn’t visible from the trapping area, so eventually a small group ventured (cautiously) back to the nest to make sure the female was actually still in the area. Not only was she still in the area, their presence got her attention in a way the hooting owl hadn’t. She abandoned her nest to circle above Chance, weaving in and out of the branches overhead. Finally she made a dive from directly above him, which is the worst possible scenario when using a dho-gaza trap—it’s the only angle from which the goshawk has a chance, albeit a small one, of striking the owl without striking the net.

At this point everything descended into barely-controlled chaos.

The goshawk did not strike Chance, but did hit the nets. Jeff rushed to get the goshawk out of the net. Mel rushed to help him. John rushed to climb the tree. Chris rushed to spot him. I rushed to… I honestly don’t remember what I did. What I mostly remember is feeling rather useless and underfoot. At some point I wound up in one of the blinds with Mel and the goshawk, taking notes and handing her things. It was so hot in there we both had sweat running down our faces and we had to leave the door open because we were afraid the bird would overheat (something birds do rather easily). With the door open, the mosquitoes were terrible. I was so busy swiping them away from my face I could barely write. I swatted a few against the data sheet, leaving dark smears of blood and mosquito across the page.

The female would not stop screaming. There’s a lot of discussion (rightfully so) in any project involving live animals about “distress.” It’s important to recognize when an animal is in distress, to minimize its distress as much as possible, and to know when it’s too distressed and needs to be released early. This bird was not what I would call “distressed.” This bird was angry. This bird was furious. This bird wanted to kill us and everyone we had ever loved. When she screamed, it was a scream of pure, elemental rage.

This was the uncomfortable moment when I realized I was somewhat afraid of my own study species.

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The Mt. Currie female gets fitted for her backpack. Check out the mosquitoes on poor Mel’s arm.

I didn’t have time to dwell on this realization because the barely-controlled chaos was still going. Almost as soon as we had the female out of the net, we heard the higher, sharper call of her mate, and Jeff hurried to get the nets back up so we could continue trapping. Only a few minutes later the male was caught, as well, and I was called away from Mel and the terrifying bird she held to help Jeff untangle the male from the net.

Here the real agony began. The mosquitoes had been bad inside the blind, but even with the door open they were nothing like how bad they were outside the blind. They were everywhere. Flying into my eyes, my ears. Crawling over my face, my hands. Because I needed both hands to hold the male goshawk, I couldn’t brush them aside. There were dozens of them on me at every moment. The pain was so continuous, it no longer felt like a series of insect bites but instead like pins and needles, or a burn. I began to sway from foot to foot, trying to distract myself. I focused on my breathing. I tried muttering a mantra under my breath (a mosquito flew into my mouth). When I looked at my hand I could see them coating my skin, each proboscis buried all the way to the head, each belly swollen ruby-bright with my blood.

Screw waterboarding, I thought. They should try mosquitoes at Guantanamo Bay. If there was someone to whom I could confess all my top-secret information, I’d do it right now.

Right about at the moment I decided to throw the male to the ground and run screaming out of the forest, science be damned, Mel and Jeff finished with the female and took the male away from me. I rubbed frantically at my skin, almost crying with relief. I don’t even remember the birds being released. We frantically grabbed our gear and fled back to the trucks.

My lips were swollen where I’d been bitten; my cheekbones and forehead were so mottled I look diseased; my hands swelled until my thumbs looked like sausages, and my left hand didn’t return to its normal size and shape for two whole days—but it was totally worth it because we tagged both birds at the site that day. And that was a pretty amazing thing.

Field report: 10 June (2/2)

Flush from our success at Turbid, we continue deeper into the Squamish valley, crossing the Squamish river to follow one of her tributaries, the Elaho. It never even occurred to us to reconnoiter the site, called Dipper Creek, before we hauled our gear and Chance the owl down a short but steep slope to an overgrown logging road. From there we fanned out, looking for the nest we knew was there—without much luck. Even Chris, who helped to find the nest in the first place (and who has an amazing memory for locations) struggled to find it. Eventually he spotted it: a few ragged sticks clinging stubbornly to a branch. The rest of the nest lay scattered across the ground, along with three dusty blue eggshells, all cracked and empty. The nest was destroyed.

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Broad stumps hint at what the thin, dense forest of Dipper Creek looked like.

We stood around in a dispirited clump, speculating on what had happened. Obviously a predator had attacked the nest and eaten the eggs. It seemed unlikely that a bird, like a great-horned owl or a raven, would destroy the nest itself. But a bear or marten could have climbed the tree and torn apart the nest looking for more tasty morsels once it had licked the eggshells clean. Goshawks rarely renest, so it was unlikely the pair who lived in this territory would try to breed again this year. Miles strolled along the road, hopefully playing goshawk alarm calls, but there was no response: the goshawks were long gone,

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There was nothing else to do except to haul everything back up the slope, and while an owl may not weight much, the carrier that holds it is a very, very awkward burden. We were all hot and sweaty and tired by the time we reached the trucks, but despite the disappointment of the destroyed nest we were all smiling. Our first day of trapping, and we’d caught a goshawk—I’d call that a victory.

Field report: 10 June (1/2)

As I type this post, the swelling in my hands has, after 48 hours, mercifully reduced and it is no longer painful to bend my fingers. My cheekbones and forehead thankfully no longer look like I have contracted an exotic skin disease, and my nose has finally returned to its normal proportions. But the backs of my hands are still mottled with dozens of angry red bumps, courtesy of one of the more hellish sites I’ve ever visited. But I’ve gotten ahead of myself: let me start at the beginning.

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Field report: 4 June

Under the familiar image of a stylized running figure, black on orange, the sign read slow down visible nudist colony ahead. Chris and I looked at each other.

“If there’s a nudist colony,” he said, “shouldn’t the sign say speed up?

We held our speed steady, but as the road wound companionably alongside the Chilliwack River there was no sign of a nudist colony. Low mountains, some still capped with stubborn patches of snow, hemmed the river into a narrow valley that forced the road to criss-cross the river on one-lane wooden bridges. Tall grass and cottonwoods pressed close against the shoulder, a blur of early-summer green as we raced toward our site. The sign and the hypothetical nudist colony were forgotten in our excitement: we were on our way to install our first nest camera.

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We parked at a pullout liberally dusted with trash: plastic bags, diapers, an entire toilet. After dividing a truly impressive amount of gear between the four of us, we started hiking. A narrow trail led steeply up the wall of the valley, with no sign of switchbacks or even a flat spot to rest. Shards of flint, exposed by the nearly vertical trail, slipped treacherously under my feet, and in places I had to use my hands to scramble up. Mel, who was fighting off a cold, struggled to keep up, and we stopped frequently to let her catch her breath. I was glad for the frequent stops: my legs were already burning, and my heavy pack made me feel like an especially ungainly turtle.

Eventually we left the trail behind. The terrain was no less steep, but now we had the added challenge of crawling through bushes and scrambling over fallen logs. Thankfully, it wasn’t too long before we heard the unmistakable alarm call of the goshawks. From the nest, the female screamed kak-kak-kak-kak-kak! and her mate appeared immediately, his shriek higher and faster: kakakakakak! We’d accidentally strayed too close to the nest. Pursued by the birds’ angry voices, we hastily retreated to respectful distance to stage our gear and talk strategy.

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It didn’t take long to decide how we would install the camera. Our climber, John, would climb the tree closest to the nest tree, screw in the camera mount, adjust the camera, and then get down as quickly as possible to avoid antagonizing the birds any more than we had to. Our goal was to be in and out in under an hour. What took longer was waiting for the birds to finish their lunch: as we talked, the male delivered a tree squirrel to the nest. Unwilling to disturb them while they ate, we took turns watching through the spotting scope as the female tore off bloody chunks of squirrel and doled them out to her three fluffy nestlings. She kept a few pieces for herself: I watched, fascinated, as she gnawed briefly on a tiny squirrel arm, complete with a tiny squirrel hand on the end, then tossed the whole thing down her throat.

The male left to find more fluffy forest denizens to kill, and the female settled down on top of her brood, apparently prepared for an afternoon nap. This was our cue. While Chris and I kept an eye on the nest from our vantage point—the ground was so steep that by standing a short distance upslope we were at eye-level with the nest—Mel and John scrambled down the slope to begin the climb. The female was obviously aware of us—I could see her alternately watching me and eyeing the ground beneath the nest—but she seemed more wary than worried.

After what felt like ages, I finally spotted John working his way up the tree. The process seemed agonizingly slow and breathtakingly dangerous, though logically I knew it was neither. He was clearly in the female’s blind spot: though she turned her head back and forth, listening to his progress, she made no move to leave the nest until he was almost at her eye level. Then, all at once, she flung herself into the air.

I wrote in my notebook 2:02 female off nest.

Here’s the thing. You’ve probably been dive-bombed by a crow or a jay. It can be scary. But those birds are bluffing. This bird was not bluffing. Screaming furiously, she made a couple of warning passes, close enough that I saw John throw up his arm to fend her off. Then she stopped playing nice. I saw her swift dark form flash through the branches, and John shouted in pain and surprise. She banked and came back for another pass. My heart was pounding and I could hear Mel calling up to John, but there was nothing I could do. The bird continued circling and screaming and diving, forcing John to wedge himself among a handful of dead branches as cover while he worked to get the camera in place. Stymied by the branches, or perhaps coming to realize John wasn’t as great of a threat as she’d feared, the female backed off, though she continued shrieking furiously.

Camera in place, John rappelled down the tree so quickly he seemed to teleport. Before he and Mel could even scramble back up the slope to rejoin Chris and myself, the female was back on the edge of the nest, carefully checking over her fluffy chicks as though to reassure herself they were all still there.

2:33 female back on nest I wrote. The whole thing had taken almost exactly 30 minutes.

We clustered together around our massive pile of gear, everyone grinning and congratulating each other and telling and retelling what had happened. John, of course, had pride of place: there was a cluster of ragged holes in the shoulder of his shirt and scratches underneath, though the worst part, he said, was the bruise he could already feel forming. The female had hit him twice, once on the shoulder and once on the ribs. He’d been attacked by plenty of crows during his work, but I got the impression he’d been caught off-guard by the ferocity of the goshawk’s response.

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I kept peering through the scope at the newly-installed camera, which looked very small against the bulk of the tree to which it was attached. I felt like the goshawk mother, anxiously fretting over her chicks: Was it turned on? Was it angled correctly? Would it work? I wouldn’t know until September, when we took it down again, and by then it would be too late to change anything. It was nerve-wracking but also a relief: it was out of my hands now.

“How about we go in to town and get a beer?” John said. “I feel like I could use a beer.”

No one could argue with that.