Field report: finally

Not yet September, and fall is already chasing summer away: the afternoon light has lost the gold of midsummer; the mornings are cool and smell like things leaving. Two months after we retreated from Sigurd Peak in defeat, I still haven’t written anything about the field season. Perhaps it’s because time seems meaningless these days: two months, two days, two years—it’s all feels the same. Perhaps it’s because the field season was so miserable.

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Sunset over the mountains near the Utzilus site.

It’s hard to say what, exactly, made the season so. Certainly the pandemic made things challenging, adding a level of uncertainty and stress to work that is inherently uncertain and stressful. The weather undoubtedly contributed, being so cold and rainy that we were forced to reschedule trips and dig out our down jackets even in late June. As always, the work was physically grueling and emotionally exhausting. But perhaps the worst was that we only found two nests.

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My morning routine involves covering my feet in duct tape to prevent blisters.

This is not to say that the season as a whole was a bust. Because of the pandemic, our crew was divided into strict teams. Other teams found a number of nests, even more than last year. But Gina and I, despite all our effort and suffering, found only two—and one of them failed less than two weeks later. The season’s last straw was a minor injury while scrambling up the steep and rocky Sigurd Valley Trail that ended our final stint early and on a downcast note. And so, as I spread my dripping tent out on the floor of my room to dry, I was glad the season was over and I felt no desire to write a single word about it.

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A beautiful day in the Squamish Valley.

“What happens to your birds after you’re done with them?” my physiotherapist asked, after I told him I studied northern goshawks. “Do they get to go back to the wild?”

“Oh, no,” I said. “They were always in the wild. We just stop bothering them.”

That’s my favorite thing about “the wild”: it was always there. Before I drove up the Squamish Valley, before I climbed up the Ashlu Canyon, it was there and the goshawks were there in it. And even though I am no longer in it with them, and may never be again, it makes me glad to know those goshawks are still out there. I just stopped bothering them.

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Our last, gloomy day in the field, looking out over the confluence of the Ashlu and Squamish Rivers.

Field Report: 13 May – 21 May

“I’m not getting goshawk tingles,” I said, craning my neck to stare at the trees soaring up around me. “I’m getting a goshawk hard-on.”

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Sunset at one of our campsites.

It was beautiful forest, perfect goshawk habitat, and I would like this to be a story about how we found dozens of goshawks living in it. But this is actually a story about how we spent eight grueling days in the field and didn’t find any goshawks at all.

Our first site was hard bushwhacking: heavy underbrush made every step a struggle and tumbled boulders hidden beneath a thick layer of moss threatened to roll ankles. In the afternoon we heard a male goshawk call, and over the next day and half we heard both the male and his mate call several times, but were never able to find them or their nest, no matter how many rocks we tripped over.

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Soggy weather on the “Sunshine Coast.”

The weather turned wet and miserable, so we abandoned that site in favor of trying to re-locate one of the birds we tagged last year. We struck out there, too, unable to pick up even a trace of his signal. We moved on to a third site, where I had such goshawk tingles I was sure we would finally find a nest. But the beautiful forest was completely silent. Finally we turned to our last site, which has had goshawks for the past three years, one of which we tagged last season. Yet we couldn’t pick up the signal and none of the nests were active. Exhausted, defeated, and soggy, we retreated to the city for hot showers and the comfort of our own beds.

Field report: 31 July – 1 August

At least it will be flat.

This is what we told ourselves as we prepared for our final habitat surveys of the season. Our last site was Ruby Lake, coincidentally the first site I visited last season. It seemed appropriate that my first year of goshawking should be bracketed by the same site. And it seemed like it would be an easy site to end with, after the steepness of Mt. Ford and Twenty Mile Creek

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Red-legged from (Rana aurora) at Ruby Lake. The site contains vernal wetland/riparian, and hosts an abundance of frogs.

At least it’s the last one.

We told ourselves that, too. Because in the back of our mind we knew that, while Ruby Lake may be flat, it was covered in thick, thick vegetation. And it might not be such an easy site after all.

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Field report: 25-27 July

It was 8:00 in the morning and I was staring at a washed-out road that was crushing all my hopes and dreams merely by existing. Or by not existing, as the case may be. The road had been our only shot at driving to the top of the Ford Mountain site and the handful of survey points (randomly generated, remember) clustered there. Without the road, not only would we have to survey the very, very steep site entirely on foot, the high cluster of points became, barring heroic effort on our part, completely inaccessible.

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I said a bad word and got back in the truck. What else could I do? We drove back down to the bottom of the mountain and started walking. It was 8:00 in the morning and the day was already off to a bad start.

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Field report: 8-9 July

The problem with random points is that… they’re random. In this way, they are probably no better than systematic points, which have their own problem of being, well, systematic. Either way, the points are placed with no consideration, kindness, or mercy for the poor sods who have to go there and collect data. The poor sods in this case being Chris and me.

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Looking north over the Squamish River Valley.

Armed with a bunch of dots on a map, some surveying instruments, and a sense of fatalism, we set out to collect our habitat data. It was not quite as miserable as we predicted, though considering our low expectation this isn’t saying much. Some points were in the middle of a road: easy enough. Some points were on the far side of a raging whitewater river at the top of a sheer, towering cliff: absolutely impossible. Some were in mosquito-infested swamps that soaked our boots, or surrounded by piles of slash in clearcuts, or right in the middle of thickets so thick we could barely stand upright. A very, very few were in beautiful, open forest. It was a long two days, unpleasantly enlivened by two shocking events.

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The End… for now

And just like that: we’re done.

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After a few short, frantic weeks, we can no longer trap for goshawks or place nest cameras. Although it feels like no time has passed at all, the goshawk chicks are already beginning to fledge. As the young birds test their wings and leave the nest, their parents, previously hyper-protective, are suddenly unconcerned by the presence of an owl in the heart of their territory. This renders our dho-gaza traps mostly useless. If the chicks have already left the nest, there’s clearly no point in installing a camera; and if the chicks are still in the nest but beginning to flap their wings, climbing a nearby tree could frighten them into prematurely leaving the nest. And so, after only about four weeks, all of our trapping and camera work is finished.

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